Skunk sway bar ripped from cross member...

[A-dub5513]

Haven't been aroung for ages, and I searched and searched without any results. After switching from RSR race springs to H&R street springs, my sway bar ripped out/off the flimsy cross member sheet metal. This was yeears ago. The car plunges, pitches, and plows like an old Caddie!

Question: anyone recall a tried and true fix? I remember topics about two types of reinforcement kits (don't remember the brand).

I'm curious, can I patch the hole, reinforce it with one of these kits, and keep my 22mm Skunk bar, OR have a new cross-member welded and buy a new, less aggressive sway bar?

I'm thinking the former solution, in theory, should work because the kit reinforces a much larger area around the sway bar mounting points. More importantly, I don't have to buy BOTH the cross-member AND a new sway bar. Less $$$!!!

But will it work?

[rmcdaniels]

I've seen where people have had the ripped part welded. I use the Beak's kit with a 24mm Mugen bar and haven't had any problems. I run Skunk2 coilover sleeves over Koni Yellow shocks.

[A-dub5513]

Yeah, I've done a little research a while back...and it seems the debate is between the Beak's kit, or A-spec's reinforcement plate.

In my case, though, sub-frame tear-out HAS already happened. I've boiled it down to two hypothetical solutions:

1: Repair/replace subframe. Is it possible to have this piece partially repaired? Basically, tear-out thrashed the mounting holes to where the D-bracket mounts the bar.

2: I've had some people tell me that I shouldn't even have to worry about repairing the sub-frame at all! Flattening bent sheet metal and installing the A-spec plate would do it, according to this theory, because mounting locations for the plate is mainly on A-arms, or something? In other words, different mounting locations.

Would anyone like to shed light on how I'd go about the fix? Thanks.

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ January 31, 2006 02:16 AM: Message edited by: A-dub5513 ]</font>